Ryokan and Onsen Etiquette: A Guide for Your Stay

A night at a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn, often with an onsen (hot spring bath), is one of the most memorable things you can do in Japan. The customs can feel unfamiliar at first, but they follow a simple logic. Here’s what to expect from check-in to breakfast, how to bathe step by step, and the phrases that help.

Arriving and checking in

At the entrance you will usually take off your shoes and change into slippers. Staff may greet you with いらっしゃいませ (irasshaimase, welcome) or ようこそお越しくださいました (yōkoso okoshi kudasaimashita, thank you for coming). Give your name with 予約した〜です (yoyaku shita … desu, I have a reservation under …).

At many ryokan, staff show you to your room and explain the meal times, the bath hours and where everything is. You may be offered tea and a small sweet on arrival. Take your slippers off before stepping onto the tatami mats in your room: only socks or bare feet go on tatami. Toilets often have their own separate slippers; just remember to change back when you leave.

Wearing a yukata

Your room will usually have a yukata, a light cotton robe, and sometimes a warmer jacket for cooler months. You can wear it around the ryokan, to meals and to the bath, and at many hot spring towns people also walk outside in them.

Left over right. Wrap the right side against your body first, then the left side over it. The opposite way is how a body is dressed for a funeral, so it is worth getting right.
Tie the sash around your waist. A simple bow or knot is fine.
Ask for another size if it doesn’t fit: 大きいサイズはありますか？ (ōkii saizu wa arimasu ka?, do you have a bigger size?).

Meals and the futon

Dinner and breakfast are often included and served at set times, either in your room or in a dining room. Dinner can be a long meal of many small courses, so arrive hungry. If you have allergies or dietary needs, tell the ryokan when you book, since the meal is usually prepared in advance.

At a traditional ryokan there are no beds. While you are at dinner or in the bath, staff often lay out futon on the tatami, and they put them away in the morning. Some places now leave the futon out or have you lay it yourself, so follow what they tell you.

Onsen etiquette, step by step

Bathing etiquette is about keeping the shared water clean. Look for the curtain at the entrance marked 男 (otoko, men) or 女 (onna, women). At some places the men’s and women’s baths swap at certain times of day, so check the sign each time.

Undress in the changing room. Put your clothes and yukata in a basket or locker. Bathing is done naked; swimsuits are generally not worn.
Take only your small towel into the bathing area.
Wash thoroughly first at the washing stations, sitting on the stool. Rinse off all the soap, and rinse the stool when you finish.
Get into the bath slowly. Keep your towel out of the water: people often fold it on their head or leave it at the edge. Tie up long hair so it doesn’t touch the water.
Relax quietly. No swimming, diving or loud conversation, and no photos in the bath area.
Don’t overdo it. Hot springs can be very hot. Take breaks, drink water, and avoid bathing after drinking a lot of alcohol.
Dry off before returning to the changing room, using your small towel, so the floor stays dry.

If bathing with others feels uncomfortable, ask whether there is a private bath, 貸切風呂 (kashikiri-buro), which you can book for yourself or your group. Some rooms also have their own bath.

Tattoos

Policies on tattoos vary a lot. Some onsen and ryokan don’t allow guests with tattoos in shared baths, some allow small tattoos covered with a patch, and some welcome everyone. Private baths are often an option either way. Rules differ by venue and can change, so check with the ryokan before you book, for example on their website or by asking タトゥーがあるのですが、大浴場に入れますか？ (tatū ga aru no desu ga, daiyokujō ni hairemasu ka?, I have a tattoo; can I use the main bath?).

Useful phrases

Japanese	Say it	Meaning
チェックインをお願いします。	chekku-in o onegai shimasu.	I’d like to check in.
夕食は何時ですか？	yūshoku wa nanji desu ka?	What time is dinner?
大浴場はどこですか？	daiyokujō wa doko desu ka?	Where is the main bath?
お風呂は何時まで入れますか？	ofuro wa nanji made hairemasu ka?	Until what time can I use the bath?
貸切風呂はありますか？	kashikiri-buro wa arimasu ka?	Is there a private bath?
チェックアウトは何時ですか？	chekku-auto wa nanji desu ka?	What time is check-out?
お世話になりました。	osewa ni narimashita.	Thank you for everything (when leaving).

As with restaurants, tipping isn’t expected at a ryokan. A warm ありがとうございました and お世話になりました as you leave is the best thanks. For meals out during your trip, see eating out in Japan.

Practise before your stay

Part of the charm of a ryokan is the conversation with the people who run it. A little Japanese lets you ask about the bath, the food or the town, not just get by. A Hanabuddies tutor can role-play check-in, asking about the bath and explaining a dietary need, and answer any questions about customs, so you can simply enjoy your stay.